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999,996,250

Thanks for the explanation.
I was reading through an overclocking thread on the Q9550 last night and read that but didn't quite "take it to mind".

I'll take some pix tonight.
Last night I was running half the stuff in the case and half next to it

Just got the new board in, so it'll go in as soon as I get home and then I'll be back onto Crysis until my GF gets home from work (probably around 10pm)

The Antec 900 case runs SUPER COOL.
I'm very impressed, this is my second Antec case - I had the fans on medium and it was really cool and quiet. Definitely gonna see how loud the high setting this evening once its all together.

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I love the insulation and sound deadening in the Antec cases ... it's like you've got a pillow stuffed in there.

Yeah, the OC stuff is kind of technical, but there are some basic principles ...

1) the higher the FSB, the better.
2) Lower the CPU multiplier, memory speed and any other FSB dependent modifiers for the highest possible FSB.
3) increase voltage only when needed and only as much as needed. Excess CPU voltage can cause damage.
4) More voltage means more stability, but only if the system can handle it. this depends on the PS and heat generated.
5) keep the CPU under 65ºC ... under 50º is preferred under load. Temps increase w/ increased voltage. The same goes for video.

My current OC has the core voltage up by .2v, mem voltage up by .1v, HT voltage up .1v, PCI 1.8 up by .1v and all is stable. The CPU was hitting around 52º loaded with the rear case fan going out. It idles around 31º (at 2.1 ghz ... I trigger the 2.3 ghz OC only when gaming).

what no built in fluxcapacitor on yer computers? weak~~

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Hahah, nope no flux capacitors.
My rig has a continuemtransfunctioner though

Finished COD4 yesterday, only took a couple of hours (~5). Good game, tons and tons of action.

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how much boost you gonna run?

r6v2 was pretty good.

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I am going to the 1/8 track, but need to flip the set of slicks I have before Thursday. Every time I practice my launching, I keep spinning the shit out of the street tires all the way thru 1st and a lil thru 2nd. nothing like surprising unsuspecting motorists next to me at the light.

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Sounds fun Will ... We need to meet up one day so I can go for a ride.

Robb, I got my new case fan and GPU cooler installed over the weekend. The comp loves it. The CPU is now around 3º cooler over the stock fan before it went out. The GPU is around 22º cooler with the Zalman fan which allowed the auto overclocking utility to add 20 mhz to the memory speed. I was also getting random hangs with the old setup ... I haven't seen one since which makes me think they were heat related.

The issue I ran in to is that the 512mb X1600 had a different heatsink layout than the 256mb. the mounting holes were spaced differently, so I had to drill the mounting brackets for the cooler. BTW, that metal is insanely hard ... it burnt 2 of my bits.

So, after I get the new cooler mounted I install and everything looks good. I boot it up and my fan controller warning alarm is blaring. I look around to see WTF is up and the fan on the 256mb card is at 0 RPM. I check and all connections are good ... but the blades aren't spinning. whoops.

I pull out the 512 card and Dremel down the mounting screws on the back side toward the other card. I resinstall and boot. No alarm ... but ticktickticktickticktcik. It still isn't clearing.

So, I pull the 256mb card and grind the fan blades where they need clearance. that solved the problem or the most part. 1 or 2 blades still have minor contact, but they'll wear in to clearance soon enough ... lol.

Katie walked in to the office last night and said, "Why does it smell like burning plastic in here?" So, it's either the blades melting from contact or the plastic dust from the fan melting against something. I think it's the dust since I ground the fans using the case as a table ... lol.

BTW, this was the first time I had to use a drill or Dremel on a computer. It was a little unnerving.

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Haha, what a story.

I've had to use the dremel on my old FX5600 fan casing, it rubbed against the motherboard and didn't want the AGP card to sit like it was suppose to.

What auto overclocking software are you using? ATI specific?

I'm super happy w/ the gtx 260 thus far.
1900x1200 everything on its highest in COD4 and I'm seeing 150+ FPS
It feels a little hot to the touch though.. so might have to look into a GPU cooler.

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i need some upgrades for my pavilion dv6000. I want it to run faster with more memory. I am a dunce compaired to ya'll with computers, I can get by but cant do my own repairs to ya'lls extent.


I wouldnt mind meeting up sometime, track or not. I still get the MIL flash on some pulls and when ever doing a highway run in mid to top of 4th and 5th. I have not uploaded the new ROM, which is 58 now, not 57. I have not changed boost pressure so I might have a leak now, slight but leak none the less.


I am thinking of switching my driveline fluids to AMSOIL here in the next month or so. See if I helps the noise I am getting from the trans, and smooth some of the shifting. I dont have the $2k to fix the trans.

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For overclocking the GPU I use the ATI Catalyst application. It has a built in OC utility. For the rest I use the Abit uGuru utilities in BIOS and Windows. It's an aBit motherboard thing I guess ... I'd really like something better that could drop the multiplier on the HT though. The windows app does allow for overclocking profiles though, so I can bump the OC for gaming only and let it idle at a lower speed.

Will, send logs of 4th and 5th if you want. I try my best to go through all of the logs you send (God knows there are a ton) and address any notable knock issues. The only WOT knock I've seen lately was caused by hitting the limiter in 1st, 2nd and 3rd. Shift man!

Don't worry about the numbers I mention in emails ... I've got them all saved and always sent the latest.

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hahahaha, yeah that nice shift light i has just flashes like no tomorrow sometimes. When I launch in 1st, it is hard to tell when to shift into 2nd because all the wheel spin. If it is just slightly wet on the roads, hang up any moderate accl, spins in 1-3

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Well, that's what 430+ awhp does ...

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wish i had the money for alot more

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id be happy even wit 400.

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you would think so, until you had 400. then 450 looks so close and you start wanting it. Then when you get to 450, well 500 is only a lil farther!

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nah 400 would be good for me.

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I'd be happy w/ 400.

I can't remember what my last dyno #'s were after I got the cams installed.
Was like high 360's or 370's - but it was enough fun for me!

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yeah im somewhat happy with my power now. which should be where rob's is... err were. lol

i just want VTA my shit and id be 98% happy with my car.

handles awesome, looks good, gots some power, all it needs is some chassis stiffening.

i got my nagisa fender brace gacchiri support in today.

will install it tomorrow and let yall know how it helps handling.

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joey, what time are you gonna go to the dyno day?

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i should be there around 2 or 3. may be at 1

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I'll see ya there... I'm thinking of leaving here around 10-11am... get there around noon and head back home around 4 or so.

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got home from it it was fun...

ok someone explain the diff from speed density and blowthru set up.

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With speed density, fuel is regulated based on pressure. There is no MAF sensor in a speed density setup ... at least not for fuel tuning. With a blow-through setup, fuel is still set based on airflow (like stock) registered at the MAF, you're just referencing airflow in a different place.

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so which is better for me?

blow thru or speed density?

i just want to VTA and no stalling when coming to a sudden stop or when i turn the a/c on.

at the track when i was pushing it it went like 8.9 for couple of laps then it went to 11.6 orso the rest of the day.

and the car felt weak at first then ever since the trackday the car feels as if it picked up few HP. might be due to the colder weather, and i did change the plugs and oil too...

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I prefer tuning based on airflow, but either would be fine. I'd weigh the cost. Also consider that speed density requires tapping the mani for pressure readings.